Île de Ré is a charming and picturesque island off the west coast of France, located off the Atlantic Ocean. Île de Ré sits just off the coast of La Rochelle, which is the gateway to the island. Known for its relaxed atmosphere, stunning beaches, charming villages, and bikable scenic landscapes, Île de Ré is one of France's most beloved vacation spots.
Île de Ré is connected to the mainland of France by a 1.8 mile long bridge. In the summer, many Parisians flock to the island to enjoy the relaxed setting and charming quant villages that are reachable via bike paths throughout the island. The island is relatively small, covering about 33 square miles, and narrow, making it easy to get around and see everything it has to offer.
Hotels and Where to Stay
We settle into Saint-Martin-de-Ré, a quant and stunning village in which the entire town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This town is known for its laid-back vibe, picturesque shops, cafes, and local markets. The buildings are perfectly weathered, with white plaster facades and only sixteen verified colors are allowed to be used as the shutter hues throughout, eight blues and eight soft greens. There is a lovely central harbor and scenes of people biking to and from cafes and some parking up to a local cafe in vintage cars. The town is like a movie set and the way the sun hits the buildings in the center it is rather breathtaking.
- L'Hôtel de Toiras sits right on the waterfront, overlooking the picturesque harbor of Saint-Martin-de-Ré. The luxurious boutique hotel is housed in a historic building which dates back to the 17th century. This building was a former residence and much of the original character of the home has been preserved. This is one of the more luxurious stays on the island offering modern amenities while preserving an old world charm. The hotel's cafe is also worth mentioning, offering the perfect seat outside to sit back and watch the Île de Ré world go by.
- La Baronnie Hotel & Spa is a beautifully restored hotel with historic charm. This hotel offers a more relaxed setting, set in a 17th century chateau right in town. The guestrooms and public spaces are adorned with beautifully collected antiques and books, making it feel like you've stepped into someone's countryside escape. Breakfast is served each day outside in the garden with local cheeses and meats and you will feel right at home.
Le Corps de Garde, located within an old guards house dates back to the 17th century. This boutique hotel feels more like someone's guest house, offering a simple and charming local stay.
- For more simple accommodations that are within Saint-Martin-de-Ré, try the Hotel Le Galion or the conveniently located Hotel du Port right in the harbor. Both hotels offer a very comfortable stay in the center of town and restored interiors.
Things to do
Île de Ré has over 150 km (93 miles) of dedicated cycling paths. These paths are well-marked and designed to connect all the major villages and attractions on the island. These paths are flat and easy to navigate, making cycling accessible for all levels, from casual riders to experienced cyclists. Biking around Saint-Martin-de-Ré is a particularly delightful activity and a great base if you're looking to explore the island.
Cycling Routes Around Saint-Martin-de-Ré
Saint-Martin-de-Ré to La Couarde-sur-Mer: This route takes you along the coast, past salt marshes and vineyards. It’s a scenic ride with beautiful views of the water and the local flora. The distance is roughly 7 km (4.3 miles), making it a nice, easy ride for a half-day trip. You can also stop along the way for a swim at some of the island's beaches.
Saint-Martin-de-Ré to the Vauban Fortifications: A short, historical ride. The fortifications, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site, are located just outside the town and are well worth a visit. The area is rich in history, and biking to the fortifications gives you a great opportunity to explore this part of Saint-Martin-de-Ré at your own pace.
Coastal Path to the Lighthouse of Les Baleines (Phare des Baleines): This is one of the most popular cycling routes on the island. From Saint-Martin-de-Ré, you can follow the coastal cycling path through the island’s varied landscapes, including sand dunes, beaches, and vineyards. The Lighthouse of Les Baleines, located at the western tip of the island, is one of the most iconic landmarks on Île de Ré. The ride is about 14 km (8.7 miles) each way and offers spectacular coastal views. It’s ideal for more experienced cyclists or those looking for a longer, rewarding ride.
The Marais Salants (Salt Marshes) Circuit: This is an easy route that takes you through the island’s salt marshes, where you can learn about the traditional salt-making process. The circuit is about 10 km (6.2 miles) and offers flat, scenic views of the island’s rural landscape. It’s a great way to explore the quieter, more natural side of the island, passing through small villages and picturesque countryside.
Restaurants and Cafes
Cabane du Feneau was our favorite destination on the island. A picturesque local fish shack in which you can bike to and sit in the casual and charming setting along a marsh. After an afternoon of local wine and fresh oysters, you'll be ready to hit the bike paths in no time.
- Within Ars-en-Ré, you'll find many small cafes and lovely places to stop for lunch while biking through. La Villa offers the perfect garden for you to have a rest stop to enjoy some local wine and fish.
- La Cabane du Fier is also located within Ars-en-Ré, and perfectly charming in how quant and stuck in time it feels. With local fish and wines, be prepared to want to stay here for an entire afternoon.
Le Bistrot du Marin within Saint-Martin-de-Ré is a local favorite. Within a charming outdoor setting by the harbor, we enjoy fresh razor clams and a glass of wine after coming back from a long day of cycling.
Le Serghi, located in the old port, perfectly charming and understated and away form many of the more central touristic cafes and restaurants.
Le Baliene Bleue offering classic French dishes right on the harbor. Perfect for outdoor seating and people watching.
