Le Refuge du Montenvers is located at an altitude of about 6,276 feet in the Mont Blanc mountain range, offering a spectacular view of the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), one of the largest glaciers in the Alps. This refuge was created in 1880 (though has been restored over the years to the structure there today) and made all the more accessible for us to reach by the charming red cable car made to access this region by 1908. The Train de Montenvers only adds to the cinematic feel of this hotel, which you take from Chamonix town up to the refuge with breathtaking views the entire way. This hotel is isolated at the top of this range and is perfect for those seeking a mountaineering escape in one of the most picturesque places on earth.
The Hotel and Surroundings
The Train du Montenvers is a short walk from the center of Chamonix, making it an easy trip even if you're traveling with your snow gear. We rented snowshoes and boots from the town center before heading up to Le Refuge so that we could enjoy a few isolated days at the hotel and snowshoe around the property. Once you arrive to the hotel, you will feel like you've stepped onto a Wes Anderson set. The refuge is idyllic with a stone facade and bright red shuttered windows. As you enter the living room/ lobby, the walls are clad with wood making it the perfect Alpine retreat. There is a small, quant bar and a cosy restaurant space within the first floor of the refuge. We spent countless hours here playing board games by the fire and enjoying coffees and hot chocolate with the rest of the guests.
The Interiors
The refuge offers a variety of room types, both a dormitory-style as well as private rooms with their own bathrooms. We opt for a private room with plenty of rustic charm. The bedrooms have wood clad walls and charming rustic lighting. They feel updated and clean, it's a wonderful mix of rusticity and comfort. The views outside the guestrooms are stunning and we loved opening the window every morning we woke up to breath in the fresh mountain air as we prepared for the day. It is certainly the simple pleasures at this refuge and we wouldn't have it any other way.
We end up staying at the refuge for days on end, exploring the local terrain outside and staying for all our meals inside the refuge to get the full experience. The refuge's large dining area offer traditional Alpine meals such as fondue savoyarde, raclette, and local meats and cheeses. The evenings here are cosy and refuge and the hotel has a vast collection of French wines that we enjoyed in the living room for hours on end.
Things To Do
Hiking and Mountaineering
There are various hiking trails starting from the refuge. These trails range from relatively easy walking trails to more challenging mountain routes for experienced climbers. We spent several hours each day snowshoeing on the trails that surround the property, traveling through meandering pathways throughout the forest.
The popular trail from Chamonix via the Grand Balcon Nord offers spectacular views of the Vally and peaks. The trail is about 9 miles long and challenging, so it's recommended to ask the refuge to pack you a lunch for the day to be prepared while on the trail.
The refuge provides easy access to the Mer de Glace, which you can explore via the Grotte de Glace (Ice Cave). This is walking distance from the refuge and really only takes an hour or so out of your day to explore. It’s a unique experience to walk into the glacier, traveling through tunnels carved into the ice.
When to Visit
Summer
In the peak summer season (June to September), the refuge is much busier with tourists coming to enjoy the hikes and the spectacular views of the Mer de Glace. This time of the year will make it easier to explore the surroundings, packing lunches to go on long and sunny hikes throughout the surrounding terrain.
Winter
During the winter months, the refuge can be quite remote and inaccessible by public transport, so it’s mainly for experienced mountaineers who want a winter alpine experience. This is the best time to visit for those looking for a cosy, true Alpine experience with snowshoeing and winter hiking available.