Mallorca: A Quieter Corner of the Mediterranean
This past summer, we found ourselves drawn to Mallorca's western coast, where dramatic cliffs plunge into turquoise waters and ancient stone villages perch precariously between mountain and sea.
Our Base in Banyalbufar
We settled into a house in Banyalbufar, one of those rare Mediterranean villages that still feels genuinely lived in. Mornings were spent watching fishermen prep their boats while sipping coffee from the local café. Evenings invariably led us to Can Busquets, where the sunset view over stone terraces and sea became our nightly ritual.
The Hidden Coves
A winding path from Banyalbufar led us to a hidden swimming cove, where crystal-clear waters and smooth rocks provided a perfect morning ritual. But it was Sa Foradada that captured our hearts—a dramatic peninsula accessible only by foot or boat. The hike down was memorable, but the reward of swimming in that secluded cove followed by one of the better paella's of our lives made the ordeal entirely worthwhile.
Portol's Pottery Heritage
In the small town of Portol, we discovered a family run pottery workshop where techniques haven't changed for generations. The master potter worked quietly, his hands moving with the kind of assurance that comes from decades of practice. Each piece emerged uniquely imperfect, telling its own story through subtle variations in glaze and form.
An Afternoon in Palma
The capital demanded our attention, if only for a day. La Seu cathedral's massive rose window cast kaleidoscope shadows across Miquel Barceló's contemporary ceramic chapel—a striking dialogue between old and new. We found ourselves at Fornet de la Soca, where baker Tomeu Arbona recreates forgotten Mallorcan recipes. His almond granita alone justified the trip into town.
The Artist's Valley
Near Deià, we visited Dora Alzamora's ceramic studio, tucked away in an old stone house. Her work captures something essential about the island—earthy yet refined, traditional yet entirely contemporary. In nearby Manacor, Can Garanya provided a treasure trove of handwoven espadrilles and local glassware.
Notes for Future Visits
Book Can Busquets well in advance—the sunset tables are highly coveted.
Start the Sa Foradada hike early, before the day heats up (or rent a boat).
Visit Portol's pottery workshops mid-week when the artisans are most active.
Consider staying in a house rather than a hotel—the rhythm of village life is worth experiencing.
The western coast remains remarkably quiet, even in high season.
