The Amalfi Coast, Italy's Divine Coast
Every summer, we venture to our favorite place in the world, the Amalfi Coast. The Amalfi Coast is famous for its dramatic cliffs that rise steeply from the Mediterranean Sea. The coastline is dotted with picturesque towns and villages perched on these cliffs, offering other worldly charm and the best swims we've ever known.
Our Base on the Amalfi Coast
Each year, we spend several weeks in our beloved corner of the world. Our home base is a quaint guest house nestled between Praiano and Positano, a wild and peaceful stretch of coast. Mornings start with a long swim in a private cove, leaping from large rocks straight into the inviting Mediterranean waters. The day’s real reward, however, is the climb back up the 300 steps to our house—an effort made all the more worthwhile by the rich, aromatic cappuccino that awaits us at the top.
The Swims and Beach Clubs
What we love most about our house is its proximity to our favorite beach club, Da Adolfo. We visit nearly every other day to enjoy long swims in the bay and leisurely lunches by the sea. From Amalfi Drive, we descend the steps toward Spiaggia Laurito, winding through a jungle-like path before catching the first glimpses of the water below.
The town of Praiano feels like our home away from home after spending several months here in years past. We often take the Sita bus into town, getting off near La Brace, a fantastic fish restaurant. From there, a meandering pathway leads us down the steps to the sea, marked by hand-painted tiles that guide the way to Spiaggia. After several hundred steps (there’s no getting around the exercise), we arrive at Cala della Gavitella, a beautiful bay in Praiano. We like to settle on one of the higher rocks and use it as our base while we swim toward Il San Pietro nearby. These swims, often with the local children, are what our Amalfi dreams are made of—hours of bliss in the most serene corner of the world.
Afterward, we head to La Gavitella for lunch. We typically call ahead as we walk down, ensuring we can get a table before it fills up. Their fresh fish paired with a bottle of Greco di Tufo is a meal we’ll never tire of, especially before diving into another late-afternoon swim.
Another beach club we adore is Il Pirata, located in the heart of Marina di Praia in Positano. Nestled right up against the rocks, this charming spot is perfect for a long swim followed by a delicious lunch. It’s always a highlight of our stay.
A Boat Journey Along the Coast
When we’re in the mood for a change of pace, we rent a small boat (no license required) for a day at sea. We typically start from Marina di Praia in Praiano, grabbing a quick cappuccino and focaccia from Ristorante Armando before setting out. We make our way slowly along the coast, stopping for a swim in the bay next to Arienzo Beach Club—sometimes even popping in for a quick limoncello or Aperol Spritz. We continue past Positano, heading toward the village of Nerano, where we make our weekly pilgrimage to Lo Scoglio. After a lunch of fish, the iconic Scialatielli alla Nerano, and a few limoncellos, we find ourselves immensely satisfied and perfectly content.
Though we often head north on our boat trips, this past summer, we ventured south to Conca dei Marini, a peaceful and picturesque village. We stopped for lunch at the stunning Borgo Sant'Andrea hotel, which far exceeded our expectations. With its secluded location away from the crowds of Positano and Amalfi, it felt like a hidden gem. The setting was elegant, and the experience, though more luxurious than the others, still provided a wonderful way to spend an afternoon by the sea.
Notes for Future Visits
-Book lunch at Lo Scoglio in advance. It’s a popular spot, and reservations are essential to avoid disappointment.
-Prepare for a lot of walking and hiking in the cliffside towns.
-Accommodations in the area can be quite expensive, so we recommend looking for a nearby house or Airbnb to enjoy a more authentic, local experience. Praiano is a quieter, less touristy option compared to Positano.
-While we usually visit in July, September is a wonderful time to come—still warm, but with fewer crowds.
-For getting around, we prefer the Sita bus and water taxis, as they’re more affordable than the high taxi prices during the busy summer months.
The Amalfi Coast has a way of capturing your heart, and every visit leaves us longing for more. From the secret beaches to the vibrant local culture, it remains our most beloved place on earth.
