Rome: A Summer Love Affair
Almost every summer, we surrender to Rome's charms during the sweltering days of July / August, when locals flee and tourists brave the heat. But timing, as it turns out, has its rewards.
Our Base in Regola
We settled into Regola, a pocket of calm near Piazza Navona that still feels genuinely Roman. The neighborhood's narrow streets provided welcome shade, while its location proved perfect for early morning wanderings before the day's heat set in.
First Encounters
Fresh off the plane, we made our way to Pierluigi, where we discovered that Roman summer dining done right means the lightest, freshest fish imaginable. The heat suddenly seemed more bearable with each perfectly prepared bite.
Trastevere Days
Crossing the ancient Ponte Fabricio to Isola Tiberina, we found refuge at Tiberino with their perfectly executed caffè shakerato—a summer essential we quickly adopted as ritual. But it was Bar San Calisto that captured our hearts completely. Here, €4 spritzes and impromptu card games stretched into hours, while locals and visitors alike sought shade under the square's towering umbrellas.
The Monti Shuffle
Monti revealed itself slowly, leading us to an unplanned but memorable lunch at Rocco. Their rigatoni all'amatriciana proved exactly what Roman pasta should be, though it was their unexpected tiramisu that left us plotting our return. Later, the Borghese Gardens provided blessed relief from the afternoon sun, where another caffè shakerato accompanied hours of people-watching.
A Final Roman Evening
Our last night found us at Salotto42, tucked beneath the columns of Tempio di Adriano. Dinner followed at La Campana, where centuries of Roman dining traditions culminated in a bitter orange tart that somehow perfectly encapsulated our entire Roman experience.
Notes for Future Visits
Visit Pierluigi for lunch rather than dinner—the light is magical and tables are easier to secure.
Bar San Calisto gets lively after 6pm—arrive earlier for a quieter aperitivo.
Summer in Rome demands a midday pause—embrace the siesta.
Book La Campana in advance and request a table outdoors. It's worth powering through the heat, we promise.
The Borghese Gardens are best enjoyed in early morning or late afternoon.
