Palermo: Sicily's Wild and Wonderful Capital
This past summer, we surrendered to Palermo's chaotic charms, where crumbling palazzi meet bustling markets and every turning reveals another layer of Sicily's complex history.
Base in Kalsa
We settled into the Kalsa quarter, Palermo's historic heart, where narrow streets buzz with an energy that feels more North African than European. Mornings began with tiny cups of espresso watched over by elderly locals who've likely occupied the same seats for decades. By evening, these same streets transformed into informal dining rooms, with neighbors sharing wine and gossip under strings of lights.
The Markets
Mercato del Capo proved the perfect introduction to Palermo's market culture. We learned quickly to venture to its quieter edges, where we found an elderly man serving the sweetest orange juice we've ever tasted. At Piazza Domenico Peranni, time slowed as we sifted through piles of antique Sicilian tiles and ceramics, each piece telling its own story of the island's artistic heritage.
A Different Palace Every Day
Palazzo Abatellis captivated us with its stunning Virgin Annunciate—the kind of painting that stops you in your tracks. But it was Palazzo Mirto that truly captured our imagination, feeling more like a family home frozen in time than a museum. The real surprise came at Villa Tasca, a 16th-century estate where we spent one glorious night. The gardens alone justified the splurge, designed to inspire wandering and contemplation.
Evening Haunts
We found ourselves returning to Ferramenta, a former hardware store where tools once displayed on green shelving have been replaced by bottles of amaro. Dal Barone became our regular spot for Sicilian wine, while Botteghe Colletti provided the perfect setting for early evening aperitivo.
The Food
Between market wanderings and palazzo visits, we discovered Antica Focacceria San Francesco in the old center, though our most memorable meal came from Osteria Alivaru—their sardine meatballs and wild fennel pasta haunted us for days. For lunch, we followed locals to Al Tentacolo in Piazza Marina for the simplest, freshest fried fish.
Notes for Future Visits
Visit markets early during summer months — the heat becomes unbearable by midday.
Many palazzi close for restoration without notice — always have a plan B.
The best ceramic shops hide in Kalsa's back streets. The hidden gems are worth the trouble.
Book Villa Tasca well in advance — it's worth the splurge.
For the freshest fish at Al Tentacolo, arrive before 1pm.
