The Aeolian Islands, off the coast of Sicily
The Aeolian Islands offer a captivating step back in time. Formed by volcanic eruptions, this archipelago of seven islands takes its name from Aeolus, the Greek god of the winds. Known for their striking natural beauty, the islands boast dramatic landscapes, crystal-clear waters, and charming coastal towns. It is their rustic, unspoiled nature that has most captivated us most.
First stop in Lipari
The getting to The Aeolian Islands is a bit of a struggle, though well worth it. We flew into Palermo, took a train to Milazzo, then ferry to Lipari. Rough seas had changed our plans slightly as our originally decided to miss Lipari, however we're happy for our misfortune. We book the Hotel Carasco on a whim, a family run hotel in the Bay of Lipari. The hotel felt like a 1960s Italian film, completely untouched and unspoiled. Sea-patinaed iron and rattan furniture charmed us while we went for a morning swim in the sea before boarding our early morning ferry to Filicudi.
Filicudi
We arrive in Filicudi, warmly welcomed by friends who had arrived the day before. Settling quickly into our charming Airbnb—quintessentially Aeolian in its authenticity and rustic beauty—we head to Filicudi Porto, the island's bustling port, for a cappuccino and cornetto. Filicudi has two villages: Filicudi Porto, where most of the ferries dock, and the quieter Pecorini a Mare. Later that afternoon, we make our way to La Sirena, a small yet captivating hotel we instantly fell in love with. We savor a bottle of wine from one of our favorite Sicilian wineries, Cos, paired with freshly caught fish. The hotel's hand-painted floor tiles catch our eye and we linger for hours, watching a brief shower of rain and wind pass. Savoring the moment before we feel the pull of the sea for yet another swim. When we return back to the island we plan to stay in one of their five bedrooms.
The next day, we set out for a long walk across the island to the black rock beach of Le Punte. We are greeted there by a local Filicudiani on the beach who is renting lettini and ombrelli. Given the rocky ground, we rent some chairs and immediately go for a long swim. We notice on the top of the hill their rustic, hut-like beach bar and soon discover they make an excellent Aperol Spritz. Our afternoon is complete. Dinner that evening was at La Sirena's sister restaurant just in town, Filicrudi, a sushi restaurant serving only local fish.
Salina, The Green Island
For our last stop in the islands, we decide on nearby Salina. There is a hotel on the island I've had on my list for some time and we've heard very good things about the island. We arrive in the morning into the port and make our way over to the town of Malfa where our hotel is, the wonderful Hotel Signum. The hotel is adorned with local antiques, plaster walls that are perfectly dilapidated and patinaed floor tiles. This has been one of my favorite boutique hotel stays to date and I can't seem to get it out of my head since visiting. We find the island very walkable, exploring the meandering pathways with windows into the island homes perfectly dressed with hand embroidered curtains. We reach Spaggia dello Scario, a rocky beach in a stunning cove. We spend a generous amount of time floating in the water and head up to the beach hut cafe after for a simple tuna salad with local capers - life is very sweet here.
We have dinner that night in the garden of La Pinnata del Monsu. It's simplicity is what makes this place charming and we enjoy the setting sitting out with lanterns seeing the sunset over the sea.
Notes for Future Visits
-Rent a local Mehari to get you around the islands.
-Enjoy a fresh granita from Da Alfredo one morning with a brioche.
-Rent an air mattress at the Spaggia dello Scario for ease of sun bathing on the rocks and for floating in the sea.
-Walk just before sunset to the charming outdoor restaurant that is Da Piero - the family that runs this restaurant makes the food in the van you order from, it's perfection on wheels.
