Umbria: Italy's Undiscovered Green Heart
Last summer, we ventured into Umbria, where medieval hilltop towns emerge from rolling countryside. While tourists flock to neighboring Tuscany, this verdant region remains delightfully authentic—a place where age-old traditions still shape daily life.
Our Base in Perugia
We settled into a stone house just outside Perugia, the region's capital that proved perfect for daily explorations. Mornings began with pastries from Pasticceria Sandri, a historic café where the cornetti are still made by hand each dawn. Evenings often found us at Osteria a Priori, where the wine list reads like a love letter to Umbrian vintners and the intimate osteria setting encouraged long, leisurely dinners.
The Hilltop Towns
A short drive brought us to Spello, perhaps Umbria's most picturesque village. We discovered Bar Giardino quite by accident, following the scent of coffee and fresh cheese through winding stone streets. Lunch at Il Trombone offered views that stretched across olive groves to distant hills—the type of place that turns a quick bite into a two-hour affair.
Assisi surprised us. Despite its fame, we found quiet corners away from the crowds. Skip the tourist spots and head to Ghiotto Ristorante, where the views rival the basilica's but the dining room remains refreshingly local.
Orvieto demanded a full day. The cathedral's façade alone justified the journey, but it was Trattoria la Palomba's truffle pasta that cemented our affection for the town. We climbed Torre del Moro at sunset, when the surrounding valley turns golden and the town's medieval towers cast long shadows across terracotta roofs.
A Reschio Afternoon
Perhaps our most memorable day was spent at Reschio, a 9th-century castle turned hotel straddling the Umbria-Tuscany border. Count Benedikt Bolza and his wife have created something extraordinary here—a place where contemporary luxury feels completely at home within ancient stones.
Notes for Future Visits
Book Osteria a Priori well in advance—the intimate setting means tables are scarce.
Visit Spello early morning or late afternoon when the light makes the stone walls glow.
The Umbria Jazz Festival in July transforms Perugia—book accommodations months ahead.
Consider timing your visit for autumn truffle season.
Rent a car—the best discoveries require wheels and wandering.
