Il Tacco d'Italia, The Heel of Italy - Puglia
Puglia is the captivating region in the southeastern "heel" of Italy, bordered by the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the southeast. Known for its sun-drenched landscapes, rich history, and diverse culture, Puglia offers stunning natural beauty and perfectly rustic charm.
Castro, Piccolo Mondo
We start the trip by staying in a favorite hotel of ours, almost too good a hidden gem to share, Hotel Piccolo Mondo. Piccolo Mondo is located in Castro, perched on a series of rocky cliffs, offering breathtaking views over the sparkling turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea below. This coastline is marked by hidden coves and cavas for swimming and not far from nearby Puglia attractions. For us, this is the perfect home base. The interiors feel untouched from the 1960s, with hand painted floor tiles, rustic bamboo chair frames and fish motifs throughout the ceramic lighting and linens - it's like stepping back in time just where you'd want to be.
Tricase, Tricase Port, Contrada Guardiola
It would be easy to write an entire post on Tricase alone. This town has stollen our hearts. It is not a far drive from Castro and somewhere we find ourselves nearly every dusk for an aperitif in the center. Begininning with Tricase, the town itself has a mix of Baroque and medieval architecture, with grand churches in a coral plasterwork and intricate architectural details throughout the interior. Despite the unspoiled architecture throughout, there are charming cafes that feel modern and fresh to be found littered throughout the town. If you gather in the main square, you'll find la Farmacia Balboa- a beautifully done bar in an old pharmacy that is the perfect place to watch Tricase's world go by. Dinner nearby should be at the impeccable Locanda Del Levante. Coral plaster vaulted ceilings and thoughtful Apulian dishes make this place one of the greatest places to spend an evening.
Travel towards the sea from Tricase and you'll reach Tricase Port. This magical port offers so much, from people watching from a cafe to sunbathing on the concrete pass next to the sea. If you walk past the sunbathers and continue past the bend, you may just find this tucked away beach bar playing New Order, Pizzo Cannone. Located right next to Bagno Panico, the perfect place for diving in and popping up for a spritz. After a swim, we almost always head to Mename, located right on the marina and equally nice in the morning for a coffee or sunset for an aperitif. The space is well designed and always has a charming crowd for people watching. After an aperitif, walk just a few minutes away to the beautiful Taverna del Porto. There is something about this restaurant that is hard to describe, it is utterly magic. Their freshly baked sourdough is one I still think about and the fresh fish is always delicious.
If you head further south of Tricase, you'll find the town of Contrada Guardiola. We come here nearly every weekend while in Puglia to spend the day at Lo Scalo. This is one of those places that almost hurts to share as you never want it to change. We like to reserve beach chairs ahead and spend the entire day there, heading up for lunch as a welcome break from the heat and swimming. The cove that Lo Scalo sits on is one of the very best for swimming, looking up at charming local homes and swimming amongst mostly the locals. This is a very special place and the owners are equally as charming.
Ostuni and nearby towns
Heading north, we find Ostuni to be our favorite of the larger Puglia towns. Often referred to as La Citta Blanca, the white city, gleaming with ancient whitewashed limestone buildings and full of history. The day is mostly spent wandering the stunning streets, entering local craft and pantry shops. We have an aperitif in Paragon 700 and later dinner at the beautiful Osteria Del Tempo Perso.
We stayed up north in one of Masseria Moroseta's nearby villas. It's beautifully set on an olive grove and we are immediately at ease. We head to the Masseria for a beautiful dinner and enjoy a boat ride near Gallipoli, stopping in bays for swimming just off Punta della Suina. We did not swim to shore, though it looked like there were nice local beach clubs nearby that were tempting to stop in for a spritz.
Notes for Future Visits
-Book lunch at Lo Scalo in advance with beach chairs.
-Reserve the best room in the house at Hotel Piccolo Mondo, the one in the watch tower.
-Puglia is quite driving heavy so make sure to rent a car you enjoy being in.
-We find the best time to visit is mid-September when the crowds have gone and you can enjoy swim coves with mostly locals.
